Real Korean Flavor For a YouTube Table/金大媽上YouTube 教美國人正宗韓式料理


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2015/07/17 第81期 訂閱/退訂看歷史報份
 
 
紐時周報精選 Real Korean Flavor For a YouTube Table/金大媽上YouTube 教美國人正宗韓式料理
Seeing Art as Escape From Prison Life/獄中作畫 求利益還是尋解脫?
紐時周報精選
 
Real Korean Flavor For a YouTube Table/金大媽上YouTube 教美國人正宗韓式料理
張佑生/譯
During the years that she was addicted to online gaming, life for Emily Kim began when she got home from work at 6 p.m.

艾蜜莉.金沉迷網路遊戲那些年,她的生活從下午6點下班到家開始。

"I would shower quick, and eat something, no matter what, so I could start playing my game," said Ms. Kim, a.k.a the YouTube Korean-cooking star Maangchi. "And I wouldn't stop till 3 a.m."

「我會很快沖個澡,隨便吃點東西,然後就玩遊戲,一直玩到凌晨3點。」這位金女士,也就是YouTube上的韓國料理烹飪明星Maangchi,如是說。

In 2003, divorced and with her two grown children out of the house, Ms. Kim ventured into the online role-playing battle game City of Heroes and couldn't pull herself away. Maangchi, pronounced MAHNG-chee and meaning "hammer" in Korean, was the name of her online avatar, who specialized in destruction, wielding a huge scimitar and wearing a tiny miniskirt.

2003年,她離了婚,兩個孩子也長大離家,她投入線上角色扮演打鬥遊戲《城市英雄》,難以自拔。Maangchi是她的網名,發音似「忙起」,在韓語中是「鐵鎚」的意思。Maangchi揮舞巨大的短彎刀,穿超短裙,擅長破壞。

In 2007, her children persuaded her to try a more nourishing form of Internet expression: cooking videos. "I had no idea if anyone would watch me," she said, "but the Korean recipes I saw in English were full of mistakes, and I wanted to show the real way we do things."

2007年,孩子們勸她嘗試一種更有營養的網路表達方式:烹飪視頻。「我不知道有沒有人想看我,」她說,「不過,我看到的英文韓國菜食譜充滿錯誤,所以我想展示我們道地的烹飪方法。」

Now, Ms. Kim has more than 619,000 YouTube subscribers.

如今,她的YouTube頻道訂戶超過65萬。

圖擷自YouTube

At age 58, she has just published a cookbook, "Maangchi's Real Korean Cooking," one of the few comprehensive books on Korean cooking written for Americans, but without major adjustments to make the food more accessible.

58歲的她剛出版了《Maangchi的正宗韓餐食譜》,這是少數寫給美國人看、內容詳盡的韓餐食譜,但沒有為方便讀者而做重大調整。

From watching her videos, it is hard to envision Ms. Kim as a reclusive gamer. In extravagant eye makeup and bright pink lipstick, she cooks huge batches of bibimbap, bulgogi and KFC, sweet-sticky-spicy Korean fried chicken. She demonstrates the endless variations of kimchi and schools her viewers in the pronunciation of dishes like soegogi-muguk (pronounced SAY-go-gee moo-GUHK), beef and radish soup.

看她的視頻,很難想像她是個宅在家的網路玩家。她打著濃厚的眼影,塗著亮粉色口紅,烹調石鍋拌飯、韓國烤肉,以及肯德基式的甜辣韓國炸雞。她向觀眾展示種類繁多的韓國泡菜,傳授食物的正確發音,比如牛肉蘿蔔湯(發音似崔琥基穆谷)。

Although she presents herself as lighthearted, Ms. Kim is first and foremost a teacher, and a strict one at that. "I have to do everything correctly," she said. "Otherwise I will hear about it from the Koreans."

儘管擺出一副輕鬆模樣,但首先她是位老師,而且是位嚴師。「我每件事都得做好,」她說。「否則會被韓國人批評。」

This is a phrase she often repeated to the editors of her cookbook when they quailed at including recipes for fermented sardines, jellyfish salad and kelp stock. This, Ms. Kim believes, is the problem with virtually every Korean restaurant in the United States: The food is sweeter, saltier, less spicy, less fishy and less rich with umami than it should be.

這是食譜編輯怯於把某些菜單,例如發酵沙丁魚、涼拌海蜇皮和海帶高湯加到書裡時,她屢屢對他們重申的話。她認為這正是幾乎所有美國韓餐館都有的問題:食物比正宗的韓國料理更甜或更鹹,但是辣味、魚味和鮮味不足。

Ms. Kim was raised in Yeosu, near the southern tip of the Korean Peninsula, where her family was in the seafood business. She learned from her mother, aunts and grandmothers how to not only cook but also pickle, smoke, dry and ferment.

她在靠近朝鮮半島南端的港市麗水長大,家族經營海鮮生意。她從母親、阿姨和阿嬤那裡不僅學習如何烹飪,還學習如何醃製、燻製、風乾和發酵食品。

Ms. Kim first came to the United States in 1992 with her husband, who emigrated to take a teaching job in Missouri. In the Midwest, she would lead fellow expatriates on expeditions in search of Japanese or Chinese restaurants.

1992年,她隨丈夫首次來到美國。她的丈夫移民美國,在密蘇里州教書。在美國中西部,她帶領其他韓僑尋找日本或中國餐館。

Now, she lives and shoots her videos in a compact apartment perched above Times Square. She shares the apartment with David Seguin, a web developer at The New York Times, whom she married in 2009. There, she practices the slow and ancient art of fermenting, making gochujang (chile paste) and doenjang (soybean paste), an umami-rich flavor element pervasive in Korean cooking. The recipe calls for an electric blanket, about four liters of salt and hay; it takes almost a year to complete.

現在,她住在紐約市時報廣場邊一個高樓層小公寓裡,也在這裡拍攝視頻。她和丈夫大衛.塞金同住,塞金是《紐約時報》的網頁開發者,兩人於2009年結婚。就在這個公寓裡,她用古法緩慢發酵製作辣醬和豆瓣醬。豆瓣醬在韓餐中非常普遍,鮮味十足。烹飪書指定要有電熱毯,四公升的鹽巴與乾草,需要近一年時間才能做好。

Traditionally, even a basic family dinner consists of 8 to 10 different dishes: soup or stew, rice, kimchi, often a stir-fry of protein and vegetables, and at least three side dishes like spicy cucumber salad or steamed eggplant.

按照韓國傳統,最基本的家庭晚餐也包括八至十種不同的菜肴:湯或燉菜、米飯、泡菜、通常是炒蛋和炒蔬菜、至少三份小菜,例如辣拌黃瓜或蒸茄子。

"There is nothing Koreans love more than sitting around a table where every inch is covered with food," Ms. Kim said. "And if there is a grill in the middle of it, that is even better."

「韓國人最喜歡圍坐在擺滿食物的桌邊,」她說,「如果桌子正中有烤肉,就更好了。」

 
Seeing Art as Escape From Prison Life/獄中作畫 求利益還是尋解脫?
王麗娟/譯
The news that Richard W. Matt, a convicted murderer who was killed by the police in late June after escaping from prison in New York, spent most of his time behind bars painting portraits and bartering them for preferential treatment, has come as a surprise to many.

因謀殺罪在監服刑的理查.W.麥特6月底從紐約監獄逃逸,後遭警方擊斃。當麥特服刑期間花很多時間畫肖畫像,用來換取各種優待的消息傳出時,許多人甚感訝異。

But to those who have spent years in the prisons system, such a trade is a deeply ingrained ritual of incarcerated life. It is practiced informally or as part of established programs by a wide range of prisoners, many of them, like Mr. Matt, with profoundly violent pasts and little art experience.

然而對那些在監獄體系待過多年的人來說,這種交易只是囚牢生涯的一項老規矩。它是一種非正式做法,或是形形色色犯人既有計畫的一部分,其中許多人和麥特一樣,有重大的暴力歷史,卻幾乎毫無藝術經歷。

Mr. Matt and other inmate had eluded a manhunt for weeks after drilling their way out of the Clinton Correctional Facility in upstate New York. People who had known him there say he painted to keep himself occupied and to obtain favors from guards and prisoners.

麥特和另一名受刑人從紐約柯林頓懲教設施鑽出一條路逃獄後,曾躲避追捕數周。監獄裡認識他的人說,他作畫好讓自己有事可忙,並且從獄警或受刑人那裡獲取好處。

John Mulligan served two and a half years in the prison with Mr. Matt and after his release had Mr. Matt send him paintings and drawings, which he hopes to sell. Mr. Mulligan added that painting "was a way for him not to be preoccupied with his thoughts all the time – it was an escape."

約翰.穆利根曾和麥特一起服刑兩年半,出獄後,他要麥特將畫作和素描寄給他,希望能將它們變現。穆利根說,作畫「是讓他可以不一直沉溺於胡思亂思的一種方式,它是一種逃避」。

Mr. Matt's paintings tended toward what experts on prison art described as a popular genre: photo-based portraits of celebrities, political figures and fellow inmates' loved ones.

麥特的畫作貼近監獄藝術專家所說的一種受歡迎的類型:以照片為主繪成肖像畫,主題人物包括名流、政治人物或其他受刑人的摯愛。

A guard at the Clinton prison, Gene Palmer, told investigators that he smuggled in a screwdriver and pliers and did other favors for Mr. Matt in exchange for a dozen paintings. Mr. Palmer also told investigators that he helped Mr. Matt mail one of the paintings, of the television character Tony Soprano, to a woman who sold it on eBay for $2,000.

柯林頓監獄獄警基恩.帕默告訴調查人員,他偷偷為麥特運進螺絲起子和鉗子,還給了他其他恩惠,跟他交換了12幅畫。帕默還說,他幫麥特郵寄電視劇人物托尼.索普拉諾的一幅畫給一名女性,她在電子海灣拍得2000美元。

Art by particularly notorious convicts – Charles Manson, John Wayne Gacy – has always found an avid, sometimes macabre, collector base. The market for inmate art typically ranges from small galleries and exhibitions to eBay and other websites.

一些惡名昭彰至極的罪犯如查爾斯.曼森,約翰.韋恩.蓋西的藝術作品,始終都能找到狂熱、有時令人毛骨悚然的收藏家。受刑人藝術作品的典型市場包括小畫廊、展場和電子海灣等網站。

Phyllis Kornfeld, who has taught art classes in prisons for about 30 years, said the majority of inmates making art have limited access to materials and instruction and simply paint, draw and sculpt to pass the time and as a form of expression.

圖擷自Cell Block Visions: Prison Art in America

在監獄教藝術課近30年的菲莉絲.柯恩費德說,從事藝術創造的受刑人多數只能獲得有限的材料和指導,他們只是不停地畫、不停地描、不停地雕塑,好打發時間,它同時是一種表達方式。

"It's very rarely about profit making," said Ms. Kornfeld, author of "Cellblock Visions: Prison Art in America."

《監獄願景:美國監獄藝術》作者柯恩費德說:「它很少跟牟利有關。」

Anthony Papa, who was serving 15 years to life in the Sing Sing prison in Ossining, New York, when a fellow inmate taught him how to paint, said that art was "a very powerful rehabilitating tool, not only for the prisoner but for the institution." Mr. Papa has gone on to have some success as a painter since his release, selling works for more than $1,000.

被判無期徒刑,服滿15年才可能假釋出獄的安東尼.帕巴,在紐約州奧西寧星星監獄服刑時,1名囚友教他繪畫。他說,藝術是「一個非常強大的修復工具,不僅對受刑人,對監獄也是。」出獄後,帕巴在當畫家上稍有成就,作品售價上千美元。

Andrew Edlin, who owns the Outsider Art Fair, said that if Mr. Matt's work became more valuable to collectors, it would have little to do with the quality of the art.

「局外人藝墟」老板安德魯.艾林說,麥特的作品若在收藏家眼中變得更值錢,應與作品質素無關。

"Their reasons would be purely mercenary," he said. "I think, to me, this is sort of a pop-oddity culture story rather than an art world story."

他說:「他們的理由應該純粹是牟利。我想,對我而言,這是個關乎普普怪人文化的故事,不是藝術世界的故事。」

 
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