譯/周辰陽
在這波蘭小鎮 俄烏戰爭「讓一切天翻地覆」
Set in a thick forest, ringed by limpid lakes and free of violent crime, the town of Borne Sulinowo in northwestern Poland has undeniable bucolic charm — except for the ghosts on every eerily quiet street of the Nazi and then Soviet soldiers who built it.
坐落茂密森林中，被清澈湖泊環繞，沒有暴力犯罪，波蘭西北部城鎮博爾內蘇利諾沃有無可否認的田園魅力－只不過在每條出奇寂靜的街道，修建它的納粹與後來的蘇聯士兵似乎陰魂不散。
Governed for the past three decades by Poland, the town was controlled by and was part of Germany before World War II, seized by the Red Army in 1945 and occupied by Moscow's forces until 1992. For a time, it embraced its dark side, eager to attract visitors and money to a forlorn and formerly forbidden zone so secret it did not appear on maps.
這個城鎮過去30年間由波蘭治理，第二次世界大戰前被德國控制且是德國的一部分，1945年遭紅軍拿下後被莫斯科的軍隊占用到1992年。有一段時間，它接受了自己的陰暗面，渴望吸引遊客與金錢到這個荒涼的前禁區。這裡如此保密，以至於沒有出現在地圖上。
Military re-enactors, including enthusiasts from Germany and Russia, visited each year to stage a parade, dressed in Soviet and Nazi uniforms, which are banned from public display in Germany.
軍事重演者，包括來自德國與俄國愛好者，每年來訪舉行閱兵，穿上蘇聯與德國禁止公開陳列的納粹制服。
A Polish businessperson opened the Russia Hotel, decorating it with photographs of himself and a friend dressed in Russian military uniforms and with communist-era banners embroidered with images of Vladimir Lenin. His other ventures in the town included a cafe named after Grigori Rasputin and boozy, Russia-themed corporate events.
一位波蘭商人開設了俄羅斯飯店，用自己跟友人身穿俄羅斯軍裝的照片，以及繡上列寧畫像的共產主義時代標語裝飾。他在該鎮的其他事業包括一家以拉斯普丁為名的咖啡館，和俄羅斯主題豪飲商務活動。
Russia's full-scale of invasion of Ukraine stopped all that. Kitsch became offensively creepy.
俄羅斯全面入侵烏克蘭停止了這一切。媚俗變成令人不愉快的毛骨悚然。
"Everything changed very quickly," said Monika Konieczna-Pilszek, the manager of the Russia Hotel and daughter of its founder. Online reviews, she said, suddenly went from "commenting on our food to talking about burning us down."
創辦人女兒、俄羅斯飯店經理莫妮卡．科涅茨納-皮爾塞克說，「一切變化得非常快」。她說，網上評價突然從「評論我們的食物變成討論把我們燒光光」。
She told her father they had to change the name. "Instead of attracting people, it was repelling them," she said. The inn is now called the Borne Sulinowo Guesthouse. A big Soviet banner hung in the hallway next to its restaurant has been turned around so Lenin is no longer visible.
她告訴她父親，他們必須更改店名。她說，「原店名不再吸引人，而是讓人厭惡」。這家旅館現在叫作博爾內蘇利諾沃賓館，掛在附設餐廳旁邊走廊的巨大蘇聯標語已經翻過來，所以再也看不到列寧了。
"Nobody wants to be reminded of Russia these days," Konieczna-Pilszek said.
科涅茨納-比爾塞克表示，「這些日子沒人願意想到俄羅斯」。
Dariusz Tederko, a local official responsible for promoting the town, lamented that the war in Ukraine "has turned everything upside down." The military re-enactors, he said, are no longer welcome. The Russians couldn't come anyway because of a government ban.
負責宣傳該鎮的當地官員泰代魯科感嘆，烏克蘭戰爭「讓一切天翻地覆」。他說，軍事重演者不再受歡迎。因為政府禁令，俄羅斯人不能來了。
Trying to draw more Poles and Western Europeans, he now promotes the town's less-triggering charms. "We have lots of beautiful heather," he said, waving a brochure with pictures of hiking trails and wildflowers.
他現在宣傳該鎮沒那麼冒犯人的吸引力，設法招攬更多波蘭人與西歐人。他揮著印有登山步道與野花照片的小冊子說，「我們有很多美麗的石南花」。
"Everything Russian stopped being funny after the war in Ukraine," he lamented.
他感嘆，「在烏克蘭戰爭後，俄羅斯的一切都不好玩了」。
